A well-built fence starts well below the surface. Proper post installation, correct material sizing, and a few minutes spent on property-line verification can mean the difference between a fence that lasts 25 years and one that leans within three.
Setting Posts Properly
Fence longevity depends almost entirely on post installation. The standard rule is to bury posts one-third of their total length in the ground — a 6-foot fence requires 9-foot posts set 30 inches deep in most climates, plus an additional 6 inches below the local frost line in northern states to prevent frost heave. In Minnesota or Wisconsin, that can mean digging 48 inches deep. Use a power auger for clean, consistent hole diameters — a 10-inch auger bit is standard for 4×4 line posts, and a 12-inch bit for 6×6 gate posts. Set posts in fast-setting concrete, crown the surface so water sheds away from the wood, and plumb each post with a level on two adjacent faces before the concrete firms up. Allow 24–48 hours of cure time before attaching rails. Posts that are set plumb individually but not checked for alignment with each other produce a wavy fence line that's impossible to correct after the concrete cures — run a string line between end posts and align every post to it as you go.
Property Lines and Neighbor Relations
Before digging the first post hole, confirm your exact property boundaries using a survey or by locating the original survey pins in the corners of your lot. A mistake of even 12 inches can mean building your fence on a neighbor's land, which may require removal at your expense after the fact. Most municipalities require the finished or decorative side of the fence to face the neighbor — this is a common code requirement and a good practice regardless. Check local regulations for height limits, which typically allow 6 feet in rear yards and 4 feet in front yards, though HOA rules can be more restrictive. Required setbacks from the property line vary by jurisdiction, but 2–6 inches inside your property is common to ensure the fence is clearly on your land. When in doubt, discuss the fence location with your neighbor before starting, get the agreement in writing, and pull any required permit — a few minutes of communication prevents disputes that can last years.
Choosing the Right Wood
Western red cedar is the premier fencing wood in North America — naturally resistant to rot, insects, and moisture, dimensionally stable as it dries, and visually attractive right out of the pack. Clear cedar pickets cost two to three times more than pressure-treated pine pickets, but they resist warping and cupping much better over the long term. Pressure-treated pine is the budget choice for pickets but tends to twist and bow as the preservative-treated moisture dries out, which can loosen nails and create gaps. For the most cost-effective combination, use pressure-treated 4×4 posts and 2×4 rails as the structural skeleton — these are in ground contact or close to moisture and need chemical protection — and pair them with cedar pickets for the visible surface. Redwood is an excellent alternative to cedar in the western United States, where it is more readily available and comparably priced. Always pre-drill pilot holes near the ends of cedar pickets before fastening to prevent splitting, and use hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel fasteners to avoid rust streaks down the fence face over time.